Not surprisingly in this hustle and bustle society we live in, a lot of anglers have adopted the run and gun method of fishing. Basically it entails motoring into a spot and then pounding it very quickly and if it doesn’t produce in a couple of casts, you move on and cover new territory.
While this angling offensive certainly has its time and place, especially when you have to cover large tracts of water to find fish, it can also leave you out of the winners circle, simply because you depart an area too quickly without giving it time to develop to your advantage. The other problem with run and gun as you may have deduced is that patience is thrown out with the wind.
Patience is such an important and integral element of fishing. If you don’t take the time to wait for the best time to fish, you’re going to miss the bite, and this is so true when one is dealing with tides. Waiting out for the best tide and playing it out correctly can make or break your day particularly if you’re a light tackle angler bent on ambushing a striped bass in a certain spot.
Waiting for the best part of the tide to develop or arriving at the right time is critical because for whatever reason a lot of areas in the bay, especially in shallow water zones are productive only on a certain part of the tide.
Equally interesting as our striped bass arrive into the bay system, its not always huge waves of fish, but rather smaller groups that infiltrate or filter into a given stretch as the tides evolve.
These smaller groups or pods of roving fish are very transient, and not surprisingly can be hard to find and corral, given the size of our bay, but if you target a location and sit on it where fish have to come to you as the tides develop, the battle is half won. Basically it’s like cutting fish off at the pass and I’ll elaborate on this as I go on.
Regarding tides both income and outgo will generate action, but when dealing with shallow water structure of various types especially along our bays shores, the outgo tides tend to be more productive.
The reason for this as the tide begins to drop and currents sweep past hard structure they form current seams or eddies. These edges are instinctively sought out by bass and are primarily utilized as ambush lanes, and when fish do come to these places they just sneak or filter in and fill the spot up.
These edges or eddies are not large in their scope, but you can have a pack of hungry fish sitting in them, and that obviously can create some fast action. Such fish attracting current seams can develop on the down current side of any point, individual boulder or rocks, piling structure, and the end of break walls which can be concrete or rock rip rap.
When viewing long stretches of shoreline built up of rock rip rap, while it may look all the same, should there be a single large boulder or a group of rocks that jut out away from the shore, like a tiny peninsula they will break current and attract any fish moving into the area. Of unique interest little spots like this will produce year after year.
Often times long stretches of shoreline will eventually form into some type of corner or cove. Right where that shoreline bends in, bass can congregate along these short sections, and again should there be a jutting boulder or two situated there that sticks out or a short string of dilapidated pilings that break current, its another ambush haven bass will gravitate to.
Again structure of this nature does not catch one’s eye, especially if you’re from the run and gun crowd, but if you slow down and take the time to look things over you’ll find these fish holding spots.
Because you’ll be dealing with shallow water say from 3to 8 feet, as bass enter to feed and setup on any of the above scenarios described, they can be skittish or leery particularly of any excessive boat noise or disturbance. For that reason when approaching an area that I strongly suspect has fish, I slowly ease the boat in and position about a cast away from my target, and then quietly drop anchor.
All too often I see some boaters when covering shallow stretches blasting up current and right through where there lure or fly should be, and then drift through casting expecting to hook something. Well, again, if you’re that run and gun crowd, all you’ve done is scare the bass out of the country.
When the boat comes up tight on the anchor rope, and things settle down whether throwing a jig or fly, I’ll target the current seams that develop and flow past that point, rock, piling, or end of the break wall.
I’ll also put my offering all around said structure that is creating the current seam, and then work it back using a medium to fast retrieve. If using a fly I’ll retrieve it back utilizing an aggressive two-foot strip. Regardless of what you’re casting always make it a practice to work all the way to the boats edge, and as you work the offering up hop it alongside for a few seconds before pulling it out.
Many times unseen fish that are following will strike right at your doorstep, so again it pays to be patient. Should you be getting short hits or sharp raps somewhere through your retrieve, don’t set the hook, as you’re more apt to miss the fish. Instead continue to retrieve, waiting until you get that solid stop indicating a good take. Of course, the moment it happens strike hard.
It’s a waiting game because you don’t know exactly when the fish will sweep through, but generally a good indicator takes place as the current eddies become more prominent as it sweeps past the structure, and the tide gets stronger. At times you may see a single baitfish flying out of the water. That’s another subtle clue to be mindful of.
Be very patient and methodical in your casting covering every bit of the water that’s in front of you. When action takes place it can start with a single hookup, and then bam, the fish are there producing some good action, and you may hook a nice one or two over 8 lbs. I know that’s not huge, but on light tackle or fly gear, you’re going to have fun.
When I do get bit I purposely delay the landing of the fish because like Dorado, if it has any siblings around they’ll follow that hooked fish to the boat. Anyone with a free hand should continue casting in the immediate vicinity of the hooked fish. It can often trigger another quick hookup.
Equally fascinating and a lot of folks don’t know this, as bass sweep into your immediate area, just like a rock breaking current and creating fish attracting seams, stripers will occasionally settle down right in the boils that well up off your stern. Obviously when this happens it’s a simple matter of flipping out your lure right off the stern. Hits can be immediate.
But remember folks this can only take place if you slow down and take the quiet approach as well as being patient and waiting for the fish to come to you.
Tackle
A 6-1/2 to 7 foot spin or conventional outfit loaded with 8 to 12 pound test monofilament or 20 pound braid line is a good choice. A great spinning combo that has worked well for me is the Fenwick 7’ GS70 M matched with a Penn 360 spinning reel loaded with 10 pound test Berkley Big Game. To prevent break offs from hard structure and the sharp gills of bass I’ll add a 2-1/2 foot leader of 25 to 30 lb test Stren Fluorocarbon to my main line. Place appropriate barrel swivel and snap to their respective ends of the leader.
Half ounce, white, and chartreuse bucktail jigs and rigged with a white or silver twister tail worm will consistently catch fish as well as swim baits rigged to a half ounce, jig head. On the swim baits I’ve had very good action using the Powerbait 5 “ mullet in the Watermelon Pearl color.
If you like to toss feathers 4 to 6 inch streamers in natural colors will generate action. My favorite pattern is a simple tie consisting of white bucktail topped off with green and pearl Mylar strips, and then finished off with red hackle and bead chain eyes. This pattern is tied on a stainless steel 2/0 Eagle Claw Hook.
A 9-foot fly rod that can toss a # 9 to 10 Hi-Speed, Hi-D heads will cover inshore needs. The Fenwick 9010 is an old stand by rod that works well for this. For leaders, I use a Stren fluorocarbon leader of about 6 feet that tapers down to 20 lb test. Any quality saltwater fly reel and loaded with 100 feet of shooting line and plenty of backing will do fine. (END)
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